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The Basics (A quick refresher for those who have
viewed the illustrated tutorial)
One game of Warcardz involves two players, each of which must have a
player deck. That deck consists of ten character cards and three
tactics cards. In addition, there will be two side decks -- the
attribute deck and the variable deck -- which can influence play
during the game.
Each player picks 5 character cards as their starters and places
them into positions. There are three positions in a player's line :
post, guard, flank. Put your cards face down in a horizontal line,
the outermost two are the flanks, the center is the post, and the
remaining two are guards. At no point may the total value your 5
fighters exceed 25. The value of a card is found in the upper left
corner.
Next, shuffle the side decks and place the two separate decks and
place them next to the lines. Flip over the top cards of the
attribute and variable decks. These are the initial conditions for
the battle.
The game plays out in a turn-based manner, flip a coin to see who
goes first. Each turn allows a player one of three actions :
attack, bring in a reserve, use a tactics card.
Reserves are those character cards that didn't start the match.
If you've got fewer than 5 fighters on the field and one of the
positions in your line is open, you may place a reserve there. The
25-point value limit still holds.
Using a tactics card, one can influence the side decks and turn
over new cards to change the battlefield situation. Some tactics
cards must be played before you attack. Ones that cause new
attribute or variables cards to be flipped over fall into that
category. Others are instant effects. They may temporarily raise
character attributes.
Finally, there's the heart and soul of Warcardz, the attack.
Each character has seven attributes, written vertically down the
left side of the card : attack, defense, hand-to-hand, small arms,
heavy weapons, energy, explosive, frenzy.
Pretend it's your turn and your Resistance soldier, with 3 attack
and 1 defense is attacking a New Tek cyborg with 2 attack and 4
defense. Currently, the attribute card that's flipped over and
active reads "small arms." This means combat between these two
units will be heavily influenced by their small arms attributes.
Say your Resistance soldier has 5 for small arms and the cyborg only
has 1. You announce your attack and compute the outcome. The
Resistance soldier has an attack of 3 and a small arms score of 5.
5 + 3 = 8 total attacking power. The New Tek cyborg has a defense
of 4 and 1 for small arms. 4 + 1 = 5. 8 is bigger than 5, so the
cyborg loses. He is removed from the field of play. The soldier
now has the option to move into the position that used to be
occupied by the cyborg. This is only possible immediately after
combat has expired.
The match is over when one side surrenders or has zero troops
left on the field.
Rules
Attack Directions
There are six attack directions : front, left front, right
front, left, right, aft. Few cards can attack to the aft. Most
cards can only attack in two or three directions. Note that attack
direction has no effect on the movement capability of a character
after combat. The direction that a character may attack is
indicated by a small graphic beneath the card code. There are six
lights, each corresponding to an attack direction. If the light is
red-orange, the character may launch an attack on the card in that
direction; otherwise, it cannot.
Attribute Side Deck
Stack of cards which determine what attribute(s) will be used
during combat. There is only one attribute card in play at any one
time. One is flipped over initially and only thru player
intervention will it change.
Attributes
Attributes are scores which rank competency in certain areas
of warfare. Each character has attack/defense, small arms, heavy
weapons, hand-to-hand, energy, explosive, and frenzy. Normally, any
one character is only proficient in a handful of attributes. Attack
matters when you initiate an assault on another fighter. Defense
comes into play when a combatant attacks one of your troops. Those
two items are found right under the value. The other attributes
start on the lefthand side and march vertically downwards. Each
score has a small graphic denoting which attribute you're looking
at. Frenzy is never used by itself, but occasionally in conjunction
with other attributes.
Card Code
Unique card ID found in the upper right corner of every
character card.
Character Card (also
see layout diagram)
A character card holds all the important values, so most of
the rules involve knowing what numbers to pay attention to and when.
First off, in the upper left corner is the value. The sum of
the values of your fighters may never exceed 25. In the upper right
corner is the card code. These are unique identifiers, nothing
more. Below the value is the attack/defense. The attack is the
number on the left half and defense is on the right. Below the card
code is the attack direction of the character.
Next, there are attributes below attack/defense. In order
from top to bottom, we have : hand-to-hand, small arms, heavy
weapons, energy, explosive, frenzy. The first five can be thought
of as damage types and are used to resolve combat.
The most conspicuous feature of the cards is the artwork.
Marvel in wonder. Below the portrait, you'll find the character
name, faction, and class. Immediately below that info is some
flavour text, and any class/faction/other bonuses. To the left of
that is the character's preferred (but not required) position.
Playing characters in their preferred position confers a +1 bonus to
all attribute scores, although you may play them anywhere you want.
Combat
Combat takes place among the many fighters on the
battlefield. What follows is a formulaic way to resolve any battle
...
1) Attacking player declares which fighters he's attacking
with. He then declares a target. Obviously, each attacking
character must be able to attack the target. Those that cannot are
ignored for future calculations.
2) Note the attribute card in play. It will be one of the
following : hand-to-hand, small arms, heavy weapons, explosive,
energy. For each attacker, look up the score corresponding to the
attribute card and add it to the attack score. Every now and then,
an attribute card will also instruct you to add the frenzy score.
Finally, add in the faction/class/position/misc. modifiers that may
be in play. When you figure out this number for each attacker, sum
them all. This is called the combat score.
3) The target must now try to beat or tie the combat score.
Look up the scores that the attribute card tells you to, but add in
defense this time. Apply any faction/class/position/misc.
modifiers. If this number is equal to the combat score in (2), then
the battle is a draw and nothing happens. If the defender beats the
combat score, all attackers are removed from the table. If the
defender cannot beat the combat score, he is removed from the table.
4) If the attacker wins, he may elect to move into the square
his enemy used to inhabit.
Discard (Card Sacrifice)
A player may use his turn and discard exactly one card from
his hand. In exchange, that player may flip over a new variable or
attribute card. Discarded cards may not be used again till the
current game is concluded.
Duplicates
A player may have as many duplicates
of one card in their hand and/or in play as they wish . It may not
be smart, but it is legal.
Game
One game of Warcardz consists of two players laying down their
character cards and continuing to fight until one side is completely
eliminated.
Lines (also
see layout diagram)
A line refers to the physical layout of a player's fighters on
the table. The line is horizontal in nature and should initially
consist of five character cards. Here's how it should look to begin
with (call our two teams "red" and "blue") ...
Red1 (Flank) ||| Red2 (Guard) ||| Red3 (Post) ||| Red4
(Guard) ||| Red5 (Flank)
Blue1 (Flank)||| Blue2 (Guard) ||| Blue3 (Post) ||| Blue4
(Guard) ||| Blue5 (Flank)
Movement
(also
see layout diagram)
A character may only move if the following conditions are met
: (i) that character has won a fight his turn, and (ii) the vacant
square is forward, aft, left, or right. Note that a character does
not have to move after winning combat. Here's an example with blue
and red again ...
Say that it's blue's turn and he elects to attack with his
post fighter. That fighter can only attack front, left, and right.
He attacks front and wins his combat. Things now look like...
Red1 (Flank) ||| Red2 (Guard) ||| ||| Red4
(Guard) ||| Red5 (Flank)
Blue1 (Flank)||| Blue2 (Guard) ||| Blue3 (Post) ||| Blue4
(Guard) ||| Blue5 (Flank)
In addition, blue decides he wants to move into the square.
It now looks like...
Red1 (Flank) ||| Red2 (Guard) ||| Blue3 (Post) ||| Red4
(Guard) ||| Red5 (Flank)
Blue1 (Flank)||| Blue2 (Guard) ||| ||| Blue4
(Guard) ||| Blue5 (Flank)
Player Deck
Collection of Warcardz, made up of character and tactics
cards. At the beginning of a match, a player chooses ten character
cards and three tactics cards from his deck.
Positions
There are five positions in a player's line. Post is the
center position. It has two cards on its left and two on its
right. The flank positions are on the outside. The remaining two
positions immediately to the left and right of the post are the
guards.
Reserves (characters)
Initially, players choose ten characters from their deck. The
first five laid down in a line are the starters. The remaining five
are the reserves. Before combat during his turn, a player may elect
to fill exactly one vacant spot in his line if he has fewer than
five fighters currently in play.
Starting Conditions
Each player should have ten character cards and three tactics
cards. Each player should lay five starting characters face down in
a combat line.
Tactics Card
Tactics cards fall into two categories. There are those that
can be played instantly during combat and those that must be played
before combat. Each player begins a game with three tactics cards
from his player deck.
Ties
If a battle results in the same total value for both the
attacker and the defender, both cards remain in play and the bout is
considered a draw. If two identical cards meet up in battle, both
cards are removed from the game.
Turn
During his turn, a player may do several things. Firstly, he
may put in at most one reserve or play a tactics cards. He may also
discard at most one card to alter the attribute or variable card in
play. Finally, he may elect to attack one enemy fighter with as
many of his soldiers as possible. If he attacks and wins, he may
select one character to move into the enemy's vacated position.
Value (character)
The value of a character card is located in the upper left
corner. The total value of one player's fighters on the battlefield
may not exceed 25.
Variable Side Deck
Stack of cards which confer some blanket bonus over the
battlefield. Variable cards typically have some positive effect on
a particular class, position, or faction. There is only one
attribute card in play at any one time. One is flipped over
initially and only thru player intervention will it change.
Tutorials
Visual Aids
Click on a thumbnail to view a larger picture. The following
diagrams will help you understand table and card layout. Eventually,
there will be tutorial videos available here as well.

Advanced Play
After you've mastered the basics you can begin formulating
your own strategies using the different Warcardz gameplay elements
like the use of tactics cards, flipping the attribute and variable
cards, and using movement.
One of the most powerful elements of Warcardz is a multiple-card
attack. This happens when you have an opponents card trapped between
two or more of your cards. Multiple-card attacks count the
attributes of all attacking cards as one... of course, if you lose
the battle you also lose ALL of the attacking cards as well. There
area couple places near the post positions where cards can be
attacked by up to three cards at once. We call this situation a
"vice," which happens only rarely. You want to avoid a vice position
at all times because it is rare to find one card that can defend
itself against the combined stats of three others.
Another strategy is to "block" your opponents reserve lines by
moving your cards into his vacant positions. This keeps your
opponent from placing his reserve cards on the table. The opposite
method of thought is also commonly used... by leaving vacant
spaces open, you may coax your opponent into burning up his reserve
cards faster. If you have a strong card on the table next to a
vacancy, it can actually work in your favor if your opponent places
a reserve there... and in many cases your opponent won't use the
vacant position if he doesn't have a strong reserve card to use.
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